Authentic Tiramisu Recipe & Tracing Its Mysterious Origins

Walk into any red sauce, tried and true Italian-American trattoria in the north east and you’ll find tiramisu sitting pretty on bottom of every menu. I’ll say it. Here in the USA, tiramisu is a staple dolci. As Lidia Bastianich said, by 1981, tiramisu "took everyone’s palate by storm” on the Upper East Side of New York. But… as it turns out, the soft, pillowy trifle dessert we all know and love here is actually not quite an OG Italian dessert. Although Americans have made tiramisu into a cult classic, its Italian origins are a bit more mysterious. Today we’ll be unpacking the mystery of the marscapone-whipped, coffee-dipped creation, as well as discussing just what makes this dessert oh so good!

To really understand the origins of tiramisu, it’s important to know that there are hints and traces of the dessert dating far back than the 1980’s, when it skyrocketed into popularity in the USA.

A TIMELINE OF EVENTS

17th Century - Siena, Tuscany

The first evidence of tiramisu comes from a legendary dish called zuppa del duca (the “duke’s soup”) created in Siena, Tuscany. The story goes that Grand Duke Cosimo de’ Medici III came to visit the region and brought the recipe back to Florence.

19th Century - Treviso, Veneto

Historical records also state that tiramisu originated in Treviso in 1800. The story goes that the dessert was created by a clever mistress of a “house of pleasure” in the center of the city. The mistress developed an aphrodisiac dessert that would invigorate the spirits and the desires of their customers, thanks to the coffee and spirits within the dish… as well as the protein-rich eggs. The dolci was named “tira me su,” which translates to “pick me up” in Italian.

Evidence of the dessert could be found through word of mouth, as grandmothers prepared the dish for families at large gatherings, where they knew the food would be eaten quickly (since the dish doesn’t last without refrigeration)!

The most authentic piece of evidence from the 19th century Veneto creation of tiramisu comes in from Giovanni Comisso - a poet, scholar and Treviso writer - who mentioned a dish closely resembling tiramisu in his memoirs. In his book, Giovanni mentions his grandmother, Giuseppina loved “tirame-sospiro-sù”… and she would often eat it for dinner in the winter.

However, whether or not this is legend true is unknown, as over the centuries the dessert recipe itself was unmentioned in writing until the 1980’s! Researcher Pietro Mascioni tied the dessert’s creation to Treviso when he wrote “born recently, less than two decades ago, in the city of Treviso, is a dessert called Tiramesu which was made for the first time in a restaurant, Alle Beccherie, by a pastry chef called Loly Linguanotto.” Mascioni met Alba Campeol, who told him that she got the idea for the dessert after the birth of one of her children, when she was very weak and asked for the dish, spiked with coffee to give her energy.

19th Century - Udine, Friuli Venezia Giulia

In other histories, tiramisu is created in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region. The tale tells the dessert being created for Camillo Benso, the count of Cavour. This recipe was shared in Pellegrino Artusi’s cookbook “Kitchen Science & The Art of Eating Well” published in 1891, where notably mascarpone replaced butter in the dish.

Flash Forward to the 50’s & 60’s

By the 20th century, the source of tiramisu continues to be argued between Udine and Treviso!

Udine’s very own restaurant called “Roma” placed the dish on its menu in the 1950’s. It’s because of this in combination with Artusi’s recipe that was published in 1891, that the Ministry of Agriculture and Food Resources has assigned the paternity of tiramisu to the Friuli Venezia Giulia region. It’s actually added to the dessert to the Friulian list of PAT – Traditional Agrifood Products.

Treviso, on the other hand, proudly displayed the dish in the restaurant “Le Beccherie” in the 1960’s. It took its pastry chef over two years to perfect the dessert using “every day flavors of the region”… espresso, mascarpone, eggs, and ladyfinger cookies. The dessert became immediately popular and was copied throughout the country.

So, what do you think? Does Friuli accurately claim ownership of the dish? Or did Venice refine and spread the popularity of the dessert as we know it?

One of the most infatuating elements of food history research is the notion that recipes become tied with tall tales and legends and folklore. I love learning the dessert I’ve ordered many a time at meatball and spaghetti joints here at home has such a rich, mysterious history in Italy. It makes it all the most fun to savor!

Authentic Tiramisu

Region: Friuli-Venezia Giulia / Veneto

Process

First brew your coffee. Stir in one tablespoon of Marsala or Amaretto. While you prep your cream, let it cool to room temperature.
Break your eggs, separating the yolks and the egg whites into two large bowls.
In your yolk bowl, add your sugar and whisk until well combined and filled with lots of air. Add one tablespoon of Marsala or Amaretto and whisk again.
In your egg white bowl, add a pinch of salt and whip until fluffy and frothy.
If you’re concerned about consuming raw eggs, heat your mixture of yolks and sugar in a bain-marie with medium hot warm water. The mixture will heat gentle and as you stir.
Add your mascarpone into your egg yolk and sugar mixture. Stirring until a thick cream is formed.
Now add your egg white mixture. Stir until the two mixtures are combined and make a thick creamy consistency.
Now it’s time to assemble! Dip your Savoiardi cookies into the cooled coffee and closely place them into a baking pan until they form a solid layer. Cover this cookie layer with your cream and sprinkle with cocoa powder. Continue this process until the baking pan is filled.
Finish with a layer of cream and a dusting of cocoa powder and cover with cling film. Cool in the fridge for about 2 hours before serving.
Enjoy!

JUST FOR FUN

This Eater post on the mysterious origins of tiramisu is a delight!
Okay, this Italian dessert poster is SO CUTE. I imagine any sweet-lover would love this in the kitchen! So freaking adorable
Savoiardi cookies… let’s talk about it. You can certainly make your own… but these are authentic and damn delicious. You actually want the dry-ness of these pre-made cookies for tiramisu. It makes the whole concoction less likely to fall apart!
Tiramisu Venetian tea? Color me curious!
If you’re making a full-blown Venetian dinner, check out this cookbook. It’s part culinary journey and recipe guide for the entire region!