Trastevere is filled with ivy-lined alleyways, quaint restaurants, creamsicle-hued homes, and canopies of green. It’s no wonder that this neighborhood is a magnet for travelers visiting the Eternal City.

Trastevere’s beauty is unmatched… except for perhaps its plethora of restaurants and nightlife! And although I’d highly recommend explorers to simply wander and enjoy its beauty - it can be overwhelming to find an authentic Roman restaurant in a sea of tourist-centered menus and charming al fresco dining options. And that, my friends, is precisely why I made a foodie’s guide to Trastevere!

After spending the last year delving deep into Rome's traditions, history and recipes, I’m so excited to share some of the absolute best restaurants (and best cocktails/dishes!) I had during our time in Trastevere this summer!

Getting To Know Trastevere

It would go against everything I hold dear if it didn’t first mention how to pronounce Trastevere. I’ve heard far too many travelers butcher the name! Simply put, it’s called “Trast-ev-ehr-eh.”

Located west of the Tiber River and south of the Vatican City, Trastevere literally translates to “beyond the Tiber.” For many, many years, it was the working-class district of Rome… but you won’t find many locals living here now.

In fact, now, Trastevere has become known as more of an international section of Rome. Many English-speaking universities and colleges have based their study abroad programs in the neighborhood (including The American University of Rome, John Cabot University, and more). Therefore, there are many international young students traipsing through its alleyways and piazzas!

Today, Trastevere has become a mecca of nightlife and dining in Rome, and for a good reason. It’s a charming, quaint, walkable neighborhood, with piazzas for gathering, and overall great energy! I’m not kidding you when I say that every night is a rollicking party here!

Notes On Italian Restaurant Culture

For travelers who are new to Italy and its cultures, I think it’s important to mention some important cultural nuances of its eateries.

Side note… This is obviously just a quick summary and just barely grazes the surface of this topic. I will write a whole post on Italian restaurant culture from a traveler’s perspective sometime soon!

For one, and this may be obvious, food is incredibly important to Italians. Meals are a sacred time for friends and family to gather, unspoiled by interruptions and time constraints.

Dinners start late (normally around 9 pm) and last hours into the evening. (As an American, I normally eat so much earlier than this… it’s embarrassing!) But when in Rome, do as the Romans do. In fact, most authentic restaurants (that don’t cater to tourists) don’t even open until 7 pm! Relax and settle into the evening. Trust me when I say, dinner is the best part of every day in Rome.

Additionally, restaurant staff often remain “waiting” for tables to wave to them when they are ready to order or receive their check. This is definitely a major restaurant difference for newbie Americans coming to Italy! I low-key love this style of being “waited on” because I absolutely hate feeling rushed when at a restaurant. It’s so nice to know that there is no expectation to leave or eat quickly for another group to take your table. Simply raise your hand or make eye contact with someone on the wait staff and they’ll be ready to assist.

Finally, although Trastevere is rife with delicious eateries… there are many, many tourist traps. Here are some things to keep an eye out for when trying to determine if a restaurant is catering to tourists.

Pictures on the menu - Listen to me, if you see this… run the other way.
Men flagging you down to sit and eat - I always say that fantastic restaurants are too busy serving customers to spend any time trying to lure customers in!
Multiple languages on the menus - Germany, French, English, AND Italian? Nope. Sorry… walk away.
Location and proximity to big sights - Unfortunately most restaurants that are closest to major attractions in Rome are there to serve travelers and tourists. Do your research and flag your Google Maps with amazing restaurant recommendations before heading out! There are often great restaurants just a few blocks away!
Untraditional Roman foods on the menu - Alfredo sauce? No thank you. There are certain Roman recipes all foodies should know before going to the Eternal City. (I’ll be making a post on this soon and will link it here! :)) If you don’t see these dishes on the menu… on to the next!

My Favorite Trastevere Restaurants

On to the stuff you’ve been waiting for… the RESTAURANTS you should seek out when in Trastevere! The following restaurants I adore (and frequented often!) and would wholeheartedly recommend to any foodie traveler! Alright here we go…

Pizzeria Dar Poeta
Drool-inducing pizza + the coziest setting = Dar Poeta. Luke first discovered this pizzeria when he was a young art student studying abroad and still stands as one of the best little spots for delicious oven-fired pizza. Their menu includes the classic pizzas, but I always loved testing out their other varieties too.
Order the Pizza Il Trionfo (plus Suppli Classico) and thank me later!
Osteria der Belli
Another “classic” of ours! I legitimately dream of this restaurant from afar because its spaghetti alle vongole truly cannot be beaten. (I should know… I tried my hand at the recipe, which you can read here!) Their pomodoro bruschetta is also so beautiful, perfectly toasted with the reddest, ripest tomatoes.
Suppli Roma
Suppli is a classic Roman street food that I hunted down almost every day we were there! Without a doubt, Suppli Roma was the best spot we had!
Here, you’ll find the cooks making these fried, arborio rice and mozzarella-filled snacks every hour, as well as trays of mouthwatering pasta dishes. It’s a compact little shop filled with many delicious snack-worthy splendors!
Osteria da Zi Umberto
I quickly became obsessed with Osteria da Zi Umberto’s unfussy and traditional trattoria feel. Their Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe is a knockout!
Truly. In a sea of tourist-driven restaurants in Trastevere, this one stands strong as a staple spot that stands the test of time.
Mimi e Coco Trast
If there’s one place you should go for aperitivo, it’s here! Mimi e Coco serves an amazing platter of small bites, bruschetta, olives, and classic drinks right beside one of the most charming alleys, where drying laundry sway in the wind and antique instruments are played. (*unfortunately, a few of readers have reached out to tell me that their quality has gone downhill… I am so sad to hear this, as it was one of our go-to’s for drinks and snacks!)

Bar Latteria
Our favorite gelateria, conveniently located right behind Piazza Trilussa! All of the flavors (and pastries) are made in-house… and there’s no other place that does pistacchio just right, in my humble opinion.
Trapizzino
What’s portable, crunchy, doughy and downright perfection? It’s trapizzino. This fairly recent food invention is almost like a very pillowy pizza in triangular form and filled with so many amazing ingredients.
Trapizzino is served up as a counter every day in Trastevere, and boy does it get busy! Late in the evening, trapizzini become the drinking food of choice for Romans and travelers alike.
I particularly loved their Chicken Cacciatore & Polpette Trapizzino.
Bar San Calisto
Bar San Calisto is the hopping spot in Trastevere. In the morning, you’ll find Roman locals in line for their cream-covered coffee granita and pastry. But by night, you’ll find a swarm of night owls popping in and out for beer to go, long drinks, and more. It’s one of the party hubs of Trastevere, with a great vibe.
Impiccetta
Although you will certainly need to make reservations for this homey little spot, Impiccetta’s Bomboloni all’amatriciana and “impiccetta” pasta were two unexpectedly delightful dinner meals. Impiccetta’s menu is quite unique in that they offer different serving sizes (how very American of them!). Be warned, even the medium is a heaping portion!
Caffe del Cinque
This picturesque little cafe in the heart of Trastevere was our go-to spot for a little espresso in the morning before a long journey out. It’s so adorable.

Ivo a Trastevere
An excellent, no-frills pizzeria that also serves Roman classics. Their thin-crust, Roman-style pizza is just classic.
Gelateria Fatamorgana
If you’re looking for an inventive gelateria, you will love Fatamorgana! Each flavor is made from all-natural, seasonal ingredients, with a nod to flavorful spices and herbs. They also serve many lactose-free and gluten-free flavors!
Mammo Trastevere
Should you be on the hunt for some non-Italian lunch or breakfast options… Mammo is the place to go!
Here, you’ll find the ever-sought-after iced coffee many Americans miss while abroad, as well as some amazing bagel sandwich options. It’s a great workspace too!
Trattoria Da Teo
You might be surprised to see that Trattoria Da Enzo al29 is not on this list. SORRY to all of you that love this spot, but I really believe it’s become a bit over-hyped and over-filled with tourists. Not dissing it, just saying that there are plenty of other spots for delicious pasta. Take, for example, Trattoria Da Teo.
This trattoria was recommended to us by a Roman regular who learned that one of Da Enzo’s former chefs opened this restaurant as his own! We absolutely loved their Ravioli ricotta e spinaci!
Roma Sparita
If Anthony Bourdain loved a place, so will I! Roma Sparita was spotlighted in “No Reservations” - with an epic scene showing its Tagliolini Cacio E Pepe in a crunchy Parmeggiano Reggiano bowl. Yes, it’s just as delicious as it sounds.
Be sure to make reservations before arriving, as this Trastevere classic serves many routine locals, and fills up quickly!

Trastevere is a place I think I’ll always feel connected to.

Our month spent residing in between its ivy-clad alleys and buzzing side streets, noshing on some of the best food I’ve ever had in my entire life will be some of the memories I’ll savor most (…pun intended)!