Xiao Long Bao: An Obsession Explored Near & Far
I’m writing this piece today in honor of Luke - my travel and life partner, who turns 33 today! Living our daily lives together for the last seven (!) years has been a ride and a half. We’ve seen so much of the world together, but we also happen to do life together pretty well too, if I say so myself! Luke, I hope you appreciate this little ode to your life-affirming discovery of soup dumplings. Happy birthday!
To understand me and Luke’s relationship… you must know one thing. We’re serious about xiao long bao.
Luke is an artist. When we first started dating, he was enrolled in an MFA program in Philly. (That is, until I convinced him to run off to Europe with me!) That said, he spent the previous summer living and creating in a small Fishtown apartment, shared by strangers who became friends… and, as he tells it, spending a lot of time in a small studio relishing in the practice of being a true artist. That meant late nights and little money. This is where the magic happens.
One night, under the dark, cavernous underpass of Philadelphia’s Convention Center, the fluorescent glow and the wafting smells of Chinese spices drew him in like a moth to a flame. It was that evening that he discovered the most precious gem - Dim Sum Garden’s xiao long bao.
What you must know now is that Dim Sum Garden has exploded in Philly. It’s practically a staple in Chinatown and has been written about in many publications. But, at the time of this discovery, it was a simple storefront just getting its start. What can I say? Luke is a real hipster.
(I could go on and tell you more about Luke’s personal feelings about soup dumplings - but I’ll direct you to his Instagram where he’ll more eloquently and charmingly fill you in!)
As we started our relationship, Dim Sum Garden became a staple in our weekend adventures. Nothing to do? Go to Philly. Soup dumplings. Friends coming in from out of town? Go to Philly. Soup dumplings. Just craving the delicately, paper thin dough filled with brothy, soul-warming pork filling? Go to Philly. Soup dumplings. You get the idea.
By now, you’re probably getting the main gist here… Luke and I will go to any length to have great xiao long bao. In fact, we essentially chose to explore the greater half of China and Taiwan to hunt out the best of the best, right from the source. Or at least attempt to find it!
A BRIEF HISTORY OF XIAO LONG BAO
Xiao Long Bao, soft pillows of brothy heaven, have a deep history with China’s Wuxi and Shanghai (formerly Jiangsu) provinces. These soup-filled dumplings originate from the 19th century, when it is believed to have been created and sold by Huang Mingxian. As a owner of a local restaurant who wanted to beat out competition with neighboring vendors, Mingxian reworked the the classic dumpling and the rest is history. The dish’s popularity spread like wildfire.
It’s always a bit mind boggling to me to understand the process through which soup dumplings are made. Just how do they get the soup inside the steamed bun?! The process of making soup dumplings comes from jellified meat stock (or aspic), perfected by chefs to get the perfect broth flavor. Once each bun is steamed, the aspic melts, filling it with the flavorful broth.
Xiao long bao became synonymous with Shanghai’s food culture when Taiwan’s Din Tai Fung reached global fame in the 20th century. The story goes that when opening his restaurant, the owner unknowingly hired a chef who knew the recipe by heart. Din Tai Fung mastered and perfected the art of the xiao long bao for the masses. (Fun fact: in their eyes - the perfect xiao long bao’s crown has 14 perfectly even pleats!)
HOW TO EAT XIAO LONG BAO
To eat xiao long bao, you should first know that there is an art to it. First rule - do not eat them in one mouthful. You’ll not only scald the absolute hell out of your mouth, but you’ll also embarrass yourself! Trust me, we’ve been there! Instead, delicately lift one from the steamer, and rest it on a soup spoon. Bite from the pleated top to let some steam out.
Now, the best part… drink some of the soup from inside the dumpling. Add a dash of vinegar, dumpling sauce, chili oil or ginger for each slurp if you’d like. Play around with this part! Finally, once the broth is gone, pop the rest of the dumpling in your mouth.
Some tips:
Be sure to order their pork soup dumpling, and eat right away! The longer they stay at room temperature, the more likely these little guys will break open when picked up.
I like a healthy dumpling sauce (not vinegar!) dunked in the broth itself for every bite, and a nice swirl of chili oil on the bottom of each dumpling.
Order their crispy scallion pancakes and slosh up any remaining sauces with it. Thank me later!
SHANGHAI, CHINA
Our xiao long bao chronicles may begin in Philadelphia, very close to home… but the opportunity to explore China’s street markets and highly esteemed dim sum restaurants was one we weren’t willing to overlook. While visiting China, we were hosted by a dear friend and local to Hefei, Rui. Having her as our personal guide was fantastic, as she knew many local spots we would have otherwise overlooked! During our time in China, we spent the majority of our time in Shanghai on the hunt for xiao long bao specifically. Could you blame us? When in Rome… right? Here’s what we discovered!
Din Tai Fung Shanghai - a must! Simply because it’s a great “foundational course” in xiao long bao.
Jia Jia Tangbao - a classic hole-in-the-wall, but beloved gem! Expect lines, but trust me… it’s worth the wait. Go here. I’d suggest coming early so you have the full menu to experience. Once they’re gone, they’re gone!
Lin Long Fang - a sister restaurant of Jia Jia Tangbao, with just as much hype surrounding it. There’s a reason why places like this have lines any hour of the day. Plus, if Anthony Bourdain loved it… you better believe we loved it too.
Nanxiang Mantou - this place is everywhere on guidebooks for xiao long bao. I’d recommend doing take out and avoiding an overpriced restaurant bill. Instead, take your dumplings to a quiet spot in the Yu Gardens.
FuChun XiaoLong - after doing some research, I was pleased to learn that FuChun is obsessive with their pork flavor… hence why I think they have such amazing pork flavored dumplings. These babies are intense!
TAIPEI, TAIWAN
Although Shanghai is the birthplace of xiao long bao, there’s no denying that Taiwan’s history with the food has made it a mecca for dim sum! Din Tai Fung’s flagship store was first on our foodie bucket list, as has more or less perfected the art. Did we eat there at least three times in one week? Yep. It’s just that good. But that being said, we also found some incredible xiao long bao outside of Din Tai Fung’s hallowed grounds! Here’s some of our favorite soup dumplings in Taipei!
Din Tai Fung Taipei - again… when in Rome! You have try Din Tai Fung when in Taipei. I loved being able to watch their chefs at work from the glass windows. Note: their obsessively thinly sliced ginger is to die for.
Raohe Night Market - one of the absolute best night markets in Taipei! It’s hard to explain how obsessed Luke and I were with this place. Be sure to not only track down the xiao long bao stand in the midst of the market (their chili oil was so delicious!), but also try the crispy Shaobing made by sticking the dough to the edges of a ceramic oven. It’s insanely good!
Hanzhou Xiao Long Bao - if you blink, you might pass by this little gem. Soft and light xiao long bao that definitely pack a punch!
PHILADELPHIa, USA
While Philadelphia may not be on every traveler’s xiao long bao bucket list (… I’d imagine it’d probably be for some foodies a mecca for cheesesteak and Italian-American fare), I can’t recommend it enough. Philly’s Chinatown is a beautiful, bustling neighborhood originally settled in the mid-19th century by Cantonese immigrants. Between its many markets and restaurants, seeing its iconic and colorful Chinatown Friendship Gate and being in close-proximity to downtown… it’s one of my favorite parts of the city.
Luke and I set out into the world looking for authentic pork soup dumplings based off of our experiences at Dim Sum Garden. And, truth be told… (controversial take coming at you in 3, 2, 1)… not many have surpassed it! In terms of paper-thin dough and savory, rich broth filling, table-side sweet dumpling sauce and chili oil, only the upper echelon of dim sum places in China and Taiwan have come close.
Other Philadelphia soup dumpling/dim sum recommendations:
Best Shared
As I finish this post, I can’t believe we’ve been able to share so many crazy experiences centered around dumplings. But more importantly, I’m filled with gratitude knowing that these wild experiences have been shared with Luke, my love and the original hipster of the xiao long bao (at least in my eyes).
Knowing that we can both turn to each other and say “hey remember how amazing that dumpling sauce was in Taiwan?” is a blessing. Sometimes these question doesn’t even need to be asked at all. We both have an incredibly library of memories to pull from, and in many of them… we’re right beside each other. A witness to each other’s experiences.
Partnership is not easy. Let alone traveling as a pair. Sometimes it ain’t pretty. It’s sweating out of every gland on fold-out chairs in humid Taipei. It’s drinking Pokari Sweat after nearly missing our flight, and losing our minds in anxiety. It’s exchanging turns the tiny bathroom when we both have stomach aches. But somehow we manage to do it and love each other in the process.
I guess what I’m saying is, as I grow older I recognize that the greater part of my life is reflected in Luke… and I him. Xiao long bao is a blip in a grand scheme of our entire lives together - but it’s one that has connected the two of us to the greater part of the world and to each other, side by side.
Happy birthday Luke! Here’s to many more soup dumplings in our future!