Torta Al Testo: Umbria's Hearty Flatbread
Centuries-old peasant bread. Simple, unassuming, crisped on a cast iron and ready to sop up all the delicious remnants of any meal. Torta al testo is unfussy, straightforward, and an absolute staple in the Umbrian cooking tradition. There’s a reason why it accompanies every Umbrian dish imaginable. It’s just that important and undeniably delicious!
In 2016, The New York Times titled Umbria “Italy’s Best Kept Secret.” I don’t disagree with them. Nestled next to tourist centric Tuscany and Lazio, Umbria is still considered to be an undiscovered gem of Italia that is the perfect choice for an authentic glimpse into Italian culture beyond the bucket list sights.
To get a real, inside look at Umbria, one needs to look no further than booking an experience with a local hospitality business that can really, truly show you the authentic practices and lifestyles of those that inhabit the region. Together In Tuscany & Umbria is exactly the place to get a specialized and inspirational trip to the region. They’ve welcomed hundreds of travelers to central Italy and have planned some of the coolest, most unique experiences for guests… including wine tastings, guided tours and cooking classes (of course!) with a team of local chefs that teach tourists how to make delicious, local Umbrian specialties.
In a time when so many small, family-owned Italian businesses are oh so ready to welcome in travelers, I’m beyond grateful to have their guidance and insight on this recipe today!
The Foods Of Umbria
Umbria cuisine is rustic, simple, minimal and rely on local ingredients… especially its meat and grains. With the area’s rich soil, nearby freshwater lakes, dense forests and abundant farmland, Umbria has astounding agricultural elements to produce some of the world’s most delicious meals.
There is a clear distinction between Umbrian food and other regions of Italy. Due to Umbria having no direct access to oceans or salt water, the region’s dishes often rely on the plentiful vegetables, lentils, mushrooms, truffles, olive oil and other land-bound ingredients.
The cuisine of Umbria stems from its Etruscan origins, and dishes typically focus on a single, delicious ingredient. These traditional dishes of the region have been passed down through generations. Rustic, hearty, simple. Whatever you call it… you can’t really go wrong when seated at an Umbrian dinner table.
Umbria’s Hearty Flatbread
Torta al testo also goes by the name crescia, and is a traditional unleavened and unsalted bread hailing from the heart of Umbria. Those who travel to Umbria know that this hearty flatbread is totally unlike focaccia or other traditional Italian breads. It’s delightfully unsalted and simple.
The name torta al testo refers to the cast iron pan called a “testum,” which the “torta” (a word typically used for cake) is cooked on. Now, I’m not sure if a modern home cook has a large brick disc like a “testum” lying around (I certainly don’t!)… but today, a cast iron skillet will do! Unlike other breads, torta al testo follows a simple recipe that takes very little time and effort, which I love.
You’ll find market stands to upscale restaurants serving torta al testo next to all the delicious meats, cheese and main courses imaginable. Whether its served as a snack or the perfect filling to a life changing meal, torta al testo is always made without yeast, leaving it unleavened besides some baking soda to lighten the dough. Then, it’s griddled until toasty warm and sliced in half. Fill it with bitter greens, cured meats, soft cheeses or whatever your heart pleases!
Ideas For Torta Al Testo Fillings
When determining what to fill your torta al testo with, there are a large variety of options to choose from. From sweet to salty to savory, rich or simple, torta al testo is a great vehicle for a delicious bite. Here are just some of my favorite fillings!
Sauteed broccoli rabe leaves that are boiled and then pan-fried with garlic and sausage or other cured meats
A rich, creamy cheese like stracchino or taleggio with bitter greens
Salty prosciutto and delicately cut Parmigiano Reggiano
Honey and soft cheese
Nutella and banana
Fresh tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil
Grilled eggplant and seasonal veggies
Oil packed tuna with sun-dried tomatoes
Torta Al Testo
Region: Umbria
Pour your 00 flour and your baking soda onto a pastry board. Make a “volcano” in the center using your fist. This is where your liquids will go!
In the center of your volcano, add about a third of your sparkling water and your olive oil. Sprinkle in your salt and mix gently with a fork.
Continue to mix with your fork , slowly adding in your flour mixture until a company dough is formed.
Vigorously knead your dough for 5-10 minutes by hand. If you think you’ve done enough kneading, do at least another few more minutes!
When your dough ball is springy, cover and let rest for at least a half hour.
Now, it’s time for your wild green filling! Boil a pot of heavily salted water and trim the leaves off of your broccoli rabe.
Add your leaves and stir for about 4-5 minutes. Transfer to a sizzling pan filled with olive oil and your crushed garlic bulbs. Let your greens fry in the pan for about a minute. Then let cool.
Back to your dough ball. Divide the dough in two parts and roll it out with a rolling pin on a well-floured surface. Each one of your discs should be about 2 centimeters thick.
Heat a flat cast iron pan and place the dough in the center. Poke your dough with the tines of the fork and let it get crisp for about 5 minutes per side.
Cut your dough in half and fill with your wild greens and other fillings of your choice.
Enjoy!
This post was sponsored by Together In Tuscany & Umbria. Their incredible services provide one-of-a-kind, localized, authentic experiences in the Umbria region. I thank them for their incredible help and recipes for this post. I couldn’t be more proud and happy to support them and their business!