Puglia's Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa
Puglia is a dreamy region of Italy. It’s undeniable. There’s a reason tourists have chosen to flock to Puglia’s pristine Mediterranean beaches and traipsing through its charming, whitewashed historic centers. Located on the heel of Italy’s boot, this stunning area is known for its olive oil, wine and idealistic “trulli” filled vacation spots. Agriculturally, Puglia is abundant with goodness. Touristically, Puglia is rich in vibrant port cities, baroque architecture and damn delicious food.
When it came time to narrowing down just what recipe would do Puglia justice, only one was a real option. Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa. It’s the most iconic recipe from Puglia’s regional cooking, stemming from the from the traditional cucina povera Pugliese technique of boiling together pasta with vegetables, sautéed in a garlic, olive oil and anchovy sauce.
Before we get into it, I’m just going to say it… this dish SLAPS. It is so savory and delicious, Luke literally exclaimed “this is a total winner” while scarfing down forkfuls on his plate. You know a meal is stupid good when there’s a lot of silence (read: horking down) after a statement like that.
That said, let’s do this!
What Makes Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa Special?
Between the slight bitterness of the fresh greens, the zippiness of the garlic, the depth the anchovies provide, and the bite from your perfectly cooked orecchiette… what’s not to love? (P.S. this dish is NOT fishy, so fear not if you read this and you’re not into anchovies. Trust me, the anchovies had a total depth of flavor that is important to the overall taste!) Blanching the broccoli rabe leaves in the pasta water makes them oh-so tender, almost one with the pasta, while keeping its bright green color too.
The final touch is the time spent emulsifying your olive oil sauce with your greens and pasta. A large dash of reserved pasta water, some time over medium heat and some consistent stirring takes this dish to a whole new level.
An Ode To Orecchiette
Orecchiette, or "little ears," are made from durum flour and water. In my opinion… their the absolute perfect pasta shape. Formed by flattening the dough by hand into small cup-shapes, orecchiette are the best for sopping up sauces!
If you really want a look into the art of making handmade orecchiette, look no further than Bari’s via dell’Arco Basso…. also known as “strada delle orecchiette" (orecchiette street). On this glorious street, you’ll find women making their homemade orecchiette, each rolling long snacks of dough on wooden boards, cut and shaped with their thumbs (and sometimes table knives) and air dried. The process is nuanced, historic and passed down through many generations.
Orecchiette is one of Italy’s oldest pasta shapes. Some historians claim that the pasta was brought to the country by the Angevins, a noble family that ruled the Basilicata and Puglia regions in the 13th century. Others believe it stems from a traditional Jewish recipe that came from Bari in the 12th century. Regardless, Puglia’s versatile, delicious and popular pasta shape is oh so iconic.
Some Tips & Tricks
If you’re making your own orecchiette, give your broccoli rabe a head start in the boiling water! Give them a few extra minutes in the boiling water before tossing in your pasta.
Dried orecchiette is just as delicious! But you’ll need to give your sauce a little extra TLC to get that perfect, creamy emulsion. Reserve a cup of starchy pasta water to toss in.
Whole anchovies may seem strange to add to a sauce, but fear not… these little babies dissolve quickly.
Traditionally, you’ll find seasoned breadcrumbs or toasted bread on top of Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa. This is because aged cheese is often too expensive for cucina povera. But listen… that said, I LOVE grated Pecorino for this recipe and would tell you to indulge! What can I say, I’m a traditionalist 9 times out of 10. But sometimes ya gotta walk on the wild side.
Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa
Region: Puglia
Bring a large pot of water to boil. Generously toss in salt.
If you’re using fresh orecchiette, add the broccoli rabe first and boil for 5 to 7 minutes. Then, drop in the pasta and cook until is al dente. If using boxed or dried orecchiette, add the pasta and broccoli rabe to the water at the same time and boil until the pasta is al dente.
Once you’ve tossed in your pasta, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
Add your garlic, anchovies, and red pepper flakes and stir until the garlic is cooked but not burnt and the anchovies have broken down.
Reserve 1 cup of pasta water and set aside.
Using a spider, scoop out the pasta and broccoli rabe, and add to your sauce skillet.
Toss together quickly for a few minutes (2-3), making sure you completely coat the noodles with the sauce.
Add in your reserved pasta water and stir to get a creamy emulsion.
Serve, topped with pecorino or toasted breadcrumbs. ENJOY!