Laura Jean

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Spaghetti Alle Vongole: A Summer Seaside Staple

Images of orange and green umbrellas, fishermen’s boats bobbing in the clear waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, sips of limoncello, and a dripping afternoon gelato. These are the flashing pictures in my mind when I relive our time in Campania. There is no summer destination I long for more than those Italy’s culture-rich and seaside abundant region. Summer, I can feel you drawing closer and closer each minute.

Today, I’m sharing one of mine and Luke’s favorite classic dish from Campania - spaghetti alle vongole, a summer, seaside staple. I can almost feel the tightness of my crisped up skin and smell the sunscreen with each bite. It’s my hope this pasta dish will transport you too! Here we go!

Spaghetti alle vongole originates in Naples, Italy’s third largest city. There, it is known as “vermecielle cu ‘e vongole” in the ancient dialect. No matter what type of long pasta you choose, be it spaghetti, linguine, vermicelli, scialatielli or bucatini, this dish requires two essential elements - a truly al dente pasta and fresh clams.

I could go on and on about Italy’s essentialist mentality. After all, the best Italian dishes are the simplest. The ingredients are pure, minimal… but freshly caught, foraged or grown by local providers.

WHY AL DENTE?

Linguine, spaghetti, fettucini… whatever pasta vehicle you opt for… remember to always cook it al dente! An overcooked pasta can ruin the texture of this masterpiece. For spaghetti alle vongole, a slightly undercooked noodle is transferred into the cooking skillet for a few minutes to create the complete concoction and cook to completion. It’s there, within the creamy sauce-yness that everything magically comes together with a dash of starchy pasta water.

CLAMS

Little neck clams ripped straight from the ocean are the ultimate jewel of the meal. Be sure to buy fresh clams and soak them in heavily salted water after rinsing for a good, long while. Unlike other shellfish, clams don’t require a long while to cook. As soon as they open themselves, cover the pot and you’ll see the all of their savory, salty flavor disperse throughout the sauce.

SECONDARY INGREDIENTS?

Purists believe that spaghetti alle vongole requires no additional ingredients. This traditional form of the dish is called “in bianco” (in white)… and what can I say? I’m a traditionalist at heart.

If you’re feeling feisty, feel free to add a handful of tomatoes or toss in some crushed tomatoes (known as spaghetti alle vongole con la salsa di pomodoro). Or, add a dash of pepperoncini for a spicy kick.

However you choose to approach spaghetti alle vongole, it’s important to always opt for the highest quality ingredients. As you may have picked up by now, Italian cooking doesn’t require expensive, obscure elements. You’ll find them in almost any grocery store. But the way to raise your cooking to a higher peak is by opting to buy local ingredients, made in season and grown organically.

The Legend Goes…

Dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, before pasta was even consumed in the Campania region, chefs would prepare savory broths with clams for Neapolitan royals and nobility. Now, that being said… it’s assumed that vongole were consumed by oceanside locals for centuries before this! However it wasn’t until the 1800’s when Ippolito Cavalcanti, the duke of Buonvicino, published the first official recipe for spaghetti alle vongole in his cookbook (written in Neapolitan dialect). This forever cemented the dish as a local treasure.

One’s Neopolitan spaghetti alle vongole is the ultimate family staple. Neopolitan families pride themselves on their ability to whip the simplest of ingredients into the salty, savory deliciousness.

The Neapolitan obsession with vongole in their pasta even has a bit of a tall tale aligned with the famous stage actor Eduardo De Filippo. The legend goes that after returning home to Naples in 1947 after grueling hours of performing, Eduardo craved spaghetti alle vongole. However, after starting the dish as he normally would do… he realized he was missing one of the most crucial ingredients… clams!

After sauteeing garlic, red pepper flakes, olive oil, a toss of cherry tomatoes, parsley and pasta… somehow Eduardo found a way to a emulate the fresh sea water, clam flavoring without the shellfish! His wife even mentioned in her cookbook that after eating it, he could directly taste and smell the sea. The final product is known as spaghetti alle vongole fujute—spaghetti with clams that have escaped.

The notion that only the best Neapolitan cook can summon the flavor of clams is a test still put to the test today! Now, I’m not even going to attempt to make spaghetti alle vongole fujute! (What can I say, my family comes from Calabria… so nowhere even close to Naples! I’m afraid I would embarrass the family name if I tried!) But I dare say… I think I’ve mastered the best spaghetti alle vongole dish. *hair toss*


Spaghetti Alle Vongole

Region: Campania

Process:

  1. Time to prep your clams! Put a knife through each clam to ensure that there isn’t any sand inside. Then rinse under cold water. (If you’re feeling extra pre-cautionary, you can let them soak in water for a few minutes too!)

  2. Boil your spaghetti in heavily salted water for about 2 minutes less than your packet lists.

  3. In a non stick frying pan, pour your olive oil and add the clams. Place a lid on top for around a minute. Then, add the chopped garlic, chili peppers and white wine. Toss to combine.

  4. Cook for about a minute, and then toss in your chopped parsley. This is when you’ll see your clams start to open up!

  5. Add your overly al dente spaghetti to the pan. Don’t strain your noodles, just transfer them over with tongs! You want the starchy pasta water to do its work in the next few steps.

  6. Cook for 2-3 minutes while stirring the mixture regularly. You’ll see everything get emulsified and coated here!

  7. When your spaghetti is perfectly al dente, serve on a plate and enjoy!

JUST FOR FUN


The long, hot days of summer lie ahead. And I look forward to delighting in it with dishes as drool-inducing as spaghetti alle vongole!

Be sure to check out what I’ve learned/cooked so far this year as I explore Italian recipes, regions, culture and more below! And also make sure to tag any of the recipes you also end up making at home with #roamingitaly. I’d love to see what you’re making!

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